A few weeks ago I wrote about
mysterious sights at sea. Here’s another one:
My grandfather, the painter Charles Hopkinson, had a lifelong love affair with the sea and ships of all sizes. In school and
college he filled his books and papers (at times including examination papers,
to the consternation of his teachers) with doodles and detailed sketches of
skiffs, sloops, schooners, ketches, yawls, catboats, brigs, barques, and clipper
ships. Long after school – indeed, throughout his life – he would draw little sketches in the
margins of books on ships and the sea to explain how a particular part of a
ship's rigging worked, or to correct an error in the text or an illustration.
He sailed whenever he had a
chance. As a boy summering in Maine he learned to handle small boats, and he was
seldom without a sailboat of his own after he was married and settled down at the house in Manchester, Massachusetts, where he lived and painted for the rest of his life.
Racing was not his thing, and he did not go in for long cruises either. Messing
about in small boats was what he loved best, and he took great pleasure in
passing along this joy to daughters and grandchildren alike.
Some of us took to it more than
others, for this gentlest of men ashore was a stickler for perfection at sea:
we soon learned that there was only one way to tie up a dinghy, fasten a
halyard to a cleat, or to “shoot” a mooring (bring a boat up to the mooring
buoy by turning into the wind and letting the sails luff at just the right
point so that the vessel came to a complete halt just as its bow kissed against
the buoy). If you didn't manage these and the myriad other skills a sailor must
know just right, he'd have you do them again and again. To a small boy (and he
started to teach me to sail when I was 8 or 9), he would seem a gruff
taskmaster. But I remember that when I did master one of these skills at last,
he was warm with his praise.
Charles Hopkinson in his (other) element |
One July day in 1945, when I was eleven,
he decided I was ready to handle his 17-foot centerboard sloop, the Armada, alone
(almost alone; he'd be a passenger while I rowed us out in the dinghy, made
sail, and handled tiller and sheets on a short sail around Egg Rock and back).
The day was bright and clear, with a gentle breeze ruffling the water, and not
a cloud in the sky.
He put a couple of sandwiches in a
paper bag, squashed a weather-beaten hat on his head, and took
the oars out of
the hall closet. The oarlocks clanged together, bringing John Joiner, his
little Welsh terrier, bounding out of his wingback chair to join us. He was not
about to miss a sail.
We walked together the half mile
to the cove – through the woods, past the barn, through the orchard and along
the lane to Kettle Cove, where the Armada was moored. I carried a bag
with our lunch and our sweaters; my grandfather carried the oars across his
shoulder; the oarlocks, dangling from their lanyards, chimed (e-flat) as they
swung together with each step he took.
The tide in the cove was high. The
venerable rowboat bobbed at the end of its running line fifty feet off the
beach. I waded out a few feet to uncoil the line from its rock and pulled in
the dinghy hand over hand, the water dripping off the line and soaking the
front of my dungarees. The dinghy scraped on the gravel shore, the dog leapt
aboard, I untied the boat, swung it around and we climbed aboard.
Under my grandfather’s watchful
eye I rowed us out, carefully feathering the oars at every stroke. We were soon
aboard the sloop. I tied the dinghy’s painter to the eye splice on the mooring
pennant with a bowline, finished off with two half-hitches, unlaced the sail
cover and stowed it away under the foredeck, hung the rudder on the transom,
lowered the centerboard, hoisted the mainsail and jib, and cast off, leaving
the dinghy rocking on the mooring.
We were soon out beyond Egg Rock. My
grandfather hadn't said a word about my steering or sail handling. I was aglow
with happiness. Then, almost without warning we were in thick fog.
The wind died away at the same
moment, and we were left to rise and fall on the oily swell coming in from the
east. The sea was gray satin, with only an occasional ripple to show there was
still a ghost of a breeze.
We sat and waited. After a while he
took a stub of a pencil out of his pocket and sharpened it with the jackknife
he produced from another pocket. The shavings curled over the side. He produced
an envelope from somewhere else, flattened it out, and began to sketch: a
Gloucester fishing schooner heading home from the Banks with a trip o’ fish, thrashing along under
shortened sail into a sou’wester. In a few strokes he had captured the driving
wind, the long dark seas, the pounding of the hull into the waves, the decks
awash with water pouring through the scuppers, the struggle of the helmsman to
keep a sharp lookout and hold the vessel on course.
“Time for a bite to eat?” he asked
me. I started to fish the sandwiches out of the bag, then stopped. I had heard
a voice, off to port.
Then another, louder, more
distinct; then a muffled laugh.
Then the creak of a block as a
line worked back and forth over its sheave. The sound of heavy spars rubbing
against one another. Something huge was out there in the fog, just beyond our
narrow circle of vision.
Then the fog scaled up, and ... O,
GLORY! A huge square-rigged ship loomed up above us, all sails set and drawing
in the gentle breeze, easing along to the westward. We stared dumbfounded at
the sight. Could it be real? Was it a mirage? A trick of the fog? A warp in
time? What square-rigger could be still be sailing in 1945? My grandfather would
know, I was sure -- but a look at his face, as open-mouthed as mine, told me
that he was as astonished as I, and not quite sure whether we were looking at
reality or a ghostly apparition.
Three or four men stood along the
vessel's starboard rail high above us; one, smoking a pipe, leaned over the
side to wave, looking real enough. The water bubbled along the square-rigger's
broad flanks and rippled outward to lap against our hull, rocking us back and
forth; that too was real. John Joiner, loafing in the bilges, didn't seem
overly impressed.
As quickly as the ship had appeared,
she passed us by to disappear into the mist once more. But we both saw her name
as she ghosted by: Joseph Conrad was picked out on her broad black
transom in bright white letters.
The Joseph Conrad now lies
at Mystic Seaport, where's she's been moored to a dock for most of the sixty-four
years since her ghostly appearance off Cape Ann.
The Joseph Conrad |
A version of this story appeared in the Gloucester Daily Times in 2009